The Meaning of Bharatanatyam Costuming and Makeup

Unlike many dance styles of contemporary culture, the costuming for Bharatanatyam has stayed constant from its founding. Called Aharya, or ornaments and decoration, costuming plays a crucial role in the traditional aspect, as well as the story telling aspect of the dance form. Although the dress, makeup, and jewelry, are extremely complicated and at times may seem overly extensive, each piece has a specific reason and significance. For the costumes themselves, the colors are traditionally of great significance. According to the Natya Shastra, the assignments of colors are as follows:

“Siddha (enlightened) women –  yellow

Gandharva (heavenly) women – saffron
Rakshasa (demon) women – black
Goddesses – parrot green
Monkey character – blue
Women in viraha (yearning) - white ”

While small details, such as the intensity of adornment, or the length of the costuming itself has changed over time, the costume consists of the same things: A loose pant which grabs at the ankles to allow for free movement (which are secured with ankle bells), a fan which brings grace and elegance to the dance, a blouse with a shoulder drape, which is very similar to the top of the traditional Indian saree, and jewelry on the waist and neck, at a minimum.